Mt. Olympus

and the Blue Glacier

Advanced

July 20-26, 2024

 

From the beach to the summit in five days.

The ascent route is approximately 22.5 miles with an elevation gain of around 8,300ft. You'll be rewarded at the summit with unparalleled views of the Olympics, the Cascades, and the Ocean to the west.

The Climb
Requirements & Training
Fundraising
The Guides
Itinerary

Expedition Dates

Jul 20th - Jul 26th, 2024

Level

Advanced

fundraising Minimum

$3,500

The Climb

Discover the challenging beauty of Mount Olympus, a notable 7,980-foot peak in Washington's Olympic Mountains. As the highest mountain on the peninsula and the most heavily glaciated in the range, it presents a significant challenge for experienced adventurers. The journey to the summit demands endurance: a long approach, navigating a glacier, and finally, tackling a 5.4 rock climbing pitch to reach the top. This climb is a rewarding experience for those prepared for its difficulties, blending rugged natural beauty with the thrill of mountaineering.

The Ascent

From Glacier Meadows, hike Way Trail 0.8 mi to the top of the Blue Glacier moraine. Turn left and follow the Way Trail along the top of the moraine for 0.2 miles before descending onto the Blue Glacier (watch for rockfall). Rope up here. 

Cross the flat glacier and ascend snow slopes, through and around rock islands, to the crest of the Snow Dome (6,600 ft), keeping left of the rock buttress. Proceed south-southeast through one of two passes left, or far left, of the five-fingered false summit, which is east of the summit, and approach the unseen summit from the east or southeast side. Drop into the sharp saddle between the false summit and the now-visible summit.

Climb a steep snow slope (good runout!) to its flat top at the base of the 80 ft summit rock on its northeast side. Descend a few feet west onto the little rocky ridge on the west edge of the summit block. Scramble up 50 ft (easy Class 3) to a large, secure belay ledge. Climb directly up mostly solid rock for 50 ft to the summit. Several moves are Class 5.3-5.4, use 3-4 small-medium cams for protection.

The Descent

From the same anchor, rappel off the summit block on the north side (double rope) or the northwest edge (single rope, to belay ledge) and descend the climbing route.

REQUIREMENTS

Physical Fitness

  • Hiking/Climbing: Ability to hike or climb continuously for 1-2 hours followed by a 10-minute rest. This can extend up to a total of 14 hours.

  • Vertical Ascent: Capable of ascending 3,000 feet with a 50-pound backpack and 5,000 feet with a 30-pound backpack in a single day.

  • Importance of Physical Conditioning: Mountaineering is physically demanding, and being in good shape is crucial.

Mountaineering Experience

  • Glacier Travel Skills: Familiarity with glacier travel, including navigating crevasses and bergschrunds.

    • Crevasse: A deep crack or fissure in a glacier formed when the glacier moves over uneven terrain.

    • Bergschrund: A crevasse that forms at the edge of a glacier, marking the division between moving ice and the stationary mountain.

  • Additional Skills:

    • Roped travel on glaciated terrain with crevasses.

    • Climbing steep snow slopes using an ice axe and crampons.

    • Engaging in Class 4 and easy 5th-class rock climbing on exposed alpine terrain.

    • Lowering and rappelling techniques.

    • Preparing for a strenuous summit day lasting 10-13 hours.

  • Beneficial Experience: Experience in backpacking and rock climbing is advantageous.

Gear and Equipment:

  • Borrowing/Renting Gear: Many recommended gear items can be borrowed or rented.

  • Climb For Hope Resources: The organization can provide additional gear like sleeping bags. Contact them before buying new gear.

  • Pre-Trip Preparations: Opportunity to rent mountaineering boots and purchase any remaining needed gear before starting the mountain journey.

FUNDRAISING

Each climber is expected to raise $3,5000 towards Climb For Hope’s mission of funding breast cancer and MS research and providing life-changing experiences for those affected by cancer.

When you sign up, we will provide a personal fundraising page and links for you to solicit or make donations. We are more than happy to help you with fundraising ideas, email templates, and marketing support, especially if you don’t have a lot of fundraising experience. 

THE GUIDES

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Our longtime partners, the experienced and professional guides at Rare Earth Adventures, handle all the nitty-gritty details of our adventure, so that we can focus on the landscape and our own personal experiences. Not only are they also highly trained to keep us safe and respond to emergencies, but they’re pretty good mountain cooks too!


Itinerary

DAY 0 Beach Camping

Arrive at Seattle-Tacoma International Airport by noon. We’ll pick you up and drive to our beach camp on the sandy shores of Olympic Coast National Marine Sanctuary. Enjoy hiking trails, tidepooling, bird-watching opportunities, and beachcombing.

DAY 1 Trailhead to Lewis Meadows

Drive to the Hoh Rainforest Visitor Center for introductions and a quick gear check. On this first day, we cover 10 miles of gradual terrain along the Hoh River, hiking through lush temperate rainforest.​ Distance: 10.5 Miles, 2,605 ft. elevation gain.

DAY 2 Lewis MEadows to Glacier Meadows

The Hoh River Trail’s gradual incline becomes a steady ascent, gaining over 3000’ in 7 miles to Glacier Meadows. We arrive in the afternoon and set up camp in the forest along a creek. We review mountaineering skills needed for the climb ahead, make final preparations, and head to bed early. Distance: 6.5 miles, 3,000 ft. elevation gain.

DAY 3 Summit Day on Mt. Olympus

With an alpine start, we eat breakfast and set off on the climb. After two days of carrying bigger loads, it’s nice to be moving with lighter packs. Summit day is long - expect a 10-13+ hour day.​ Distance: 4 miles, 3,300 ft. elevation gain.

Day 4 Glacier Meadows to Lewis Meadows

In the morning we take a scenic walk to the Blue Glacier terminus. With its proximity to the Pacific Ocean, more precipitation falls on this glacier than any other in the lower 48 United States. We pack up our camp and descend to the Olympus Guard Station.

Day 5 Olympus Guard to the trailhead

We hike out the remaining 9 miles along the Hoh River, arriving back at the parking lot by early afternoon.